Recent Wines · 17 March 2003
Chateau Lerys 1996
Fitou
Po-faced and a bit snide at first, it picks up slow speed before gallumphing to a springy sunlight-on-hot-chrome apex, then splitting into rusty metal ringlets that roll and roll and gradually wobble off like the discounted hula hoops in The Hudsucker Proxy. Dominant notes of aspirin and cake.
Chateau Tour Boisée 2000
Minervois
Two fingers in the nostrils and a gentle tug, followed by a nuzzle at the nape of the neck and that short-lived tinnitus that seems like it’s going to be a major pain or perhaps the first symptom of a ghastly disease but is always gone by the time you remember it was there. Moonglow and snowfights, more tinnitus, a pronounced barnyard sing-along before everything goes to hell and you’re left with a big creamy mess like a priest mopping up after a wank.
Cuvée Sextant 1998
Corbières
Monolithic, fearless, even rude; it goes to eleven. Pencil shavings and patchouli compete with Mister Kleen and those socks there piled up in the corner. There’s sweetness later on, much flowers and making up, and somewhere mid-swallow there’s a perceptible tong sound which rings on for several minutes. Subtle overtones of toothpaste, orange juice, coffee and bacon.
Moulin de Ciffre Éole 2000
Faugères
Not bad, not bad at all.
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